Delicias creates cultural cuisine for you and me
By Stacy Davies
Everyone knows the best Mexican food comes from little pink houses. That color, “Mexican pink,” or, more properly, rosa mexicano, is a cultural signpost, a symbol of Mexican identity that not only denotes joy and festivities, but was even once the celebrated centerpiece of fashion collections by journalist and designer Ramón Valdiosera. Formerly known as “bougainvillea pink,” Valdiosera introduced the cheery hue to the New York fashion scene in the mid-1950s, a revolutionary act that contributed to his legendary moniker, The Father of Mexican Fashion. Likewise, when it comes to Mexican restaurants, rosa mexicano not only promises authenticity on the menu, but can also offer an appetizing excursion to Mexican destinations as yet unexplored.
Sitting brightly along Desert Hot Springs’ main drag, Delicias vibrant façade is hard to miss on your way to the cluster of mineral hot spring spas at the other end of Pierson Blvd. But don’t mistake it as an afterthought. Owners Armando and Angie have gone far beyond standard south-of-the-border fare, infusing traditional expectations with an array of regional dishes that would be hard to come by elsewhere—unless you’re up for an extensive, semi-tropical road trip.
All of the recipes come from Mexico City, but, as Angie points out, that translates into multiculturalism, not homogeny.
“There are so many people from different states in Mexico City and they share their recipes. Our mole poblano with chicken and chocolate is from the state of Puebla, the mole verde with beef and pumpkin seeds is from the state of Guerrero, and the mole pipián with peanuts and almonds is from the state of Veracruz. They make up our dish, ‘Tres moles,’ all three in one, but it’s only made on weekends because it’s a huge process.”
And that’s just the tip of the tostada. Don’t miss the Churros French Toast with vanilla ice cream, the Vulcan Taco topped with crispy melted cheese, or the Pambazo—a crispy-crusted bread torta filled with potatoes and chorizo, dipped in guajillo sauce, and served with queso fresco. You’ll find it, among other delectables, in their “Street Food on Your Table” section. And definitely don’t miss the cactus tlacoyos.
For my lunch, I opted for the Chiles Gueritos appetizer: six fried yellow peppers stuffed with shrimp and melted Monterey Jack, served with chipotle aioli and soy sauce on the side. There was no passing up the Cochinita Pibil plate for my main dish, with its cazuelita of slow-cooked pork in orange-and-spice sauce, a side of rice and corn tortillas, and pickled red onion with pineapple-habanero sauce.
This incredible dish, which originates from Yucatán—the farthest southeastern point of Mexico—will have you ruing the day you must return to your boring old stateside diet. And that’s later today, of course.
Delicias also offers a kids’ menu and a full bar with cocktails as exotic as their comida creations—far too many to name here, but if you’re looking for unusual ingredients such as wildflower honey, homemade lavender syrup, chocolate liqueur, coconut cream, jalapeño-infused tequila, or edible flowers, their mixologist is sure to satisfy your spirits.
Open seven days a week, Delicias hosts special events and live music, and offers catering, so if you want to win friends or simply treat yourself to a satisfying, savory excursion, head to Desert Hot Springs’ little pink house—it’s the casita rosa that can’t be beat.
